Glock Sight Elevation Considerations

Our Glock sight sets are a steady seller for us, and there are a few updates that folks will want to know about.


First, the sights aren't being sold in sets at this time, as the growing amount of variations in the product line make matching them all up in sets an increasingly futile effort.  The "ala carte" method makes for easier inventory for us and greater freedom in shopping for you.

The next important item is a matter of discussion regarding elevation.  The factory Glocks tend to shoot anywhere from 2-4" high at 25 yards, usually necessitating the use of a 6 o'clock hold when shooting bullseye and other small targets.  Keep in mind that if you lined up 20 Glocks, all of the same model and caliber, that not every single one would shoot to the same point of impact with a given set of sights.  Glock makes a number of different height rear sights to accommodate the inherent variations in points of impact.  With this in mind, an aftermarket front/rear set with a standardized height for all models - such as the one we've been selling for a few years now - can only provide an approximate elevation setting for any particular gun.

Let's consider the front sights.  The .215" height is the most commonly used of our front sight heights, and typically provides a point of impact from 0 to approximately 2" high at 25 yards.  Results will vary with individual pistols. The .235" height front sight lowers point of impact approximately 2-3" at 25 yds from the .215" tall front sight, and the .250" height lowers the point of impact approximately 3.5-5" at 25 yds, depending on your model's sight radius. One inch of elevation change at 25 yards equates to approximately .007" of front sight height.

So how are you supposed to know what to put on the front of your gun to match that cool 05-140 rear sight you got from us?  Currently the most sure answer is to leave your existing front sight in place, shoot it at 25 yards with your new 10-8 rear in place and print a group for elevation.  Measure your existing front sight, and using the .007" of front sight = 1" at 25 yards equation (I know, no one said there'd be math...), figure out how much taller or shorter you need to go.  Everyone tends to like or accept different elevations, which further compounds the difficulty in preselecting a front sight.  I like my guns to shoot about .5" to 1" high at 25 yards so that I can see the point of impact over the tip of my front sight blade.

Lastly, once a sight has been installed, understand that we can't accept it back as a return.  Once the sight has been installed, it becomes unsaleable, so it would go on the scrap pile.  However, we want you to be happy with your 10-8 sight set, so we will work with you on getting set up properly.  Please contact us for a discounted price on additional front sights if your initial purchase does not provide the desired point of impact.

Remember - it's cheaper to measure twice and install once than the other way around.

Good shooting!

LaRue Stealth & the Cold Shot Match

I got out today to a local rifle match with my LaRue Stealth 12".  The Cold Shot match is held every 2nd Saturday at Pop's Gun Club (http://www.popsrange.com), located at 6101 US HWY 27, Southwest Ranches, FL 33332, and is $20.  The setup is pretty casual - start time is at 08:00, with four stages on static and reactive steel.  You shoot from under a covered awning on a static line, and the stages are very quick.  Your first run is for score, and you can reshoot as much as you like.  It's a good way to get out and challenge yourself and try some new skill sets.  If you're local to the Miami/Ft. Lauderdale area, check it out.  Questions can be directed to match director Tom Davidson at tom.davidson905@gmail.com.

Now back to the Stealth.  I've had the upper for a couple years, and I'd fallen in love with it when we'd gone out to Leander, TX a few years ago and got to shoot these when they first came out.  It's a very smooth shooting gun, and with the long forend and medium weight profile 12" barrel, it has all the performance benefits of a 16" gun squeezed into a smaller, handier package.

The build list includes:
-Noveske SBR lower receiver
-LaRue 12" Stealth upper with 11.0 forend
-Surefire FH556K flash hider and X200B
-Centurion Arms front sight assembly
-Aimpoint M3, 2 MOA, in LaRue mount
-Noveske/Troy folding rear sight
-Blue Force Gear RediMod
-Magpul ASAP plate with MS2 sling, MOE grip, CTR stock, BAD lever, trigger guard
-LaRue handstop and rail cover kit
-Bravo Company USA Mod 5 charging handle


You can read more about the Stealth uppers at the LaRue website.


I usually run Tango Down pistol grips and vertical foregrips and Viking Tactics slings and flashlight mounts, so this build was a bit of a departure.  I wear a size 8 flight glove, so the MOE grip with its increased length of pull is a bit different for me.  I will likely be going back to the TD grip pretty soon.  The new LaRue handstop is pretty neat, and provides a positive stop and index for your hand without the added weight/bulk of a vertical foregrip.  It works for me in this application, though I generally prefer the vertical foregrip for its benefits in one handed manipulations and varied shooting positions. 

The X200B was just an older light that I had laying around, and I'd been wanting to try the 12:00 mounting of the light.  It is handy in that it allows ambidextrous manipulation of the switch as well as keeping the sides of the gun clean for use around barricades and cover.  The lamp is just far back enough that it doesn't get scorched by the muzzle blast.  Note that the location of the Centurion Arms front sight assembly both protects the X200B switches from white light ND's and provides a handstop on the top of the gun where my thumb wraps over the top of the handguard.  By the way, the only way I'd ever suggest mounting this style of shuttle switch pistol light to a long gun is this 12:00 mount with the front sight protecting the switch.  I have seen way too many white light ND's from lights mounted on the side of the gun, and users bumping the switches during handling or moving through brush.